January 4 2003.

The Pyrenees wine region in western Victoria takes in the quiet hamlets of Moonambel and Avoca. But appearances are deceiving. There is nothing quiet about their robust reds. Here are five red producers making wines wioh plenty of attitude.

1. Berrys Bridge enjoyed the kind of debut that every new producer dreams about    when its generously flavoured 1998 and 1999 shiraz and cabernet sauvignon were "discovered" by US wine buyers and critics. First vintage was 1997 by winemaker Jane Holt and viticulturalist Roger Milner had many years experience in the wine industry before finally choosing the Pyrenees and making it big. It shows. The wines (there is a merlot too) are intense packages of concentrated fruit flavour distinguished by fine oak, Prices are around $30 a bottle.

2. Blue Pyrenees Estate...

3. Dalwhinne...

4. Redbank...

5. Summerfield...